The integrated toolbox

As all boat owners probably know, simply owning the boat is the first basic goal: then if you don’t want the thing to gently collapse around you and eventually sink, you have to keep it in good repair. In other words, you have to keep it. Usually the end result is that the boat stays safe and keeps going, a bit like your car.

While the word ‘maintenance’ is synonymous with ‘work’, there is usually either the hardest way or the easiest way to go about it. The hard way is to crawl around in the dark, without the proper equipment, using a kitchen knife to try to unscrew a screw that has been tightened enough to prevent the landing gear from falling off a Jumbo jet! This will not do. We have to be fully prepared for most scenarios and this is where a very good logical, sensible and integrated toolkit comes into the picture. I might add here, the emphasis is on board. Under no circumstances, to be taken ashore, to serve as equipment to fix the lawn mower or, God forbid, the refrigerator. This primary ‘piece of equipment’ may save you and your ship at some point in the future, so it should always be within easy reach, day and night, like a friend in need, if you will.

If you were to take any two boats in a marina and do a spot check on their toolkits, you might be in for a surprise. All owners seem to have different priorities when it comes to DIY on board. Also remember, we learn as we live. If you see something that could save your bacon on a terrible night, buy it and add it to the stash without a second thought.

SOME BASICS (NOT NECESSARILY IN ORDER OF PRIORITY!)

Lighting: A rechargeable lantern from someone like ‘Kambrook’ with thousands of candle units that can illuminate every corner with a dazzling glow… even in daylight.

More lighting! – A “miner’s lamp” type flashlight with earpiece can keep your hands free even in bad weather conditions for complicated jobs.

Knife: A good sharp knife is a must. It doesn’t matter if the blade is folded or open, as long as it can cut well. A blade sharpening device is a must, like a Swiss tungsten steel ‘Istor’ for example (found in good hardware stores).

Scissors – in fact several different sizes, some disposable, some good steel, they come in handy for all sorts of things and cut wire in a pinch.

Pliers: I like strong, insulated electrician’s handles with cutting blades made of good steel. They are expensive but priceless. A good backup is needle nose pliers that are at least four inches long.

Screwdrivers – Everyone has a screwdriver on board, right? The problem is that they are always too long, too short, bent, and covered in grease or paint. Get a full box set, flat blade and Philips head and make sure they are at least ‘Stanley’ quality. Some people like the reversible blade types, but beware of the ‘terrors of Taiwan’ that melt on contact with a screw head. Oh! Don’t forget a small set of watchmaker’s screwdrivers for those impossibly small screws that live on the back of electronic equipment.

Hammers – Four different hammers are a priority. A type with a nylon/rubber head to deal damage-free hits, a small ball ‘toffee hammer’ type, and a pointed ‘ice pick’ or welder’s hammer for rust and scale. The latter is a good heavy responsive hammer for hard hits when needed.

Vice Grips: Two pairs, an eight-inch, good quality stainless steel, and a small pair of the needle-nose type for tough corners. Don’t be tempted to buy cheap here, you will always regret your decision later.

Spanners or Adjustable Wrenches: Two or three types are needed here. Cheapos wear out quickly and allow play to ruin the holding quality of these tools. Two roughly the same size allow you to undo a nut and bolt. A really big one is useful for unexpected jobs like loosening and tightening the glans nut on the stern tube or even the prop nut.

Drills – Two types here. One, a cordless drill with charger. Always use a keyless chuck. A drill without a chuck key is about as useless as the Titanic with an outboard motor. Note: If you have a cordless drill that has died of battery, you can revive it by soldering two wires, positive and negative, to the two battery terminals inside the drill handle. These cables can incorporate two alligator clips and connect to a battery and use the drill anywhere. Make sure the cables are at least one meter long. Finally, a decent set of metal twist drill bits with at least two spare small bits should complete your drilling setup. You may, if space permits, bring a hand drill for emergency use.

Wrenches – It always seems like you can never get enough of the stuff. Good quality metric and imperial ring wrenches on a folding roll.

Nylon Power Ties – What a great invention these things are! Make sure you have several sizes from 30 cm to 5 cm long. They are lifesavers for almost every job where things need to be permanently or temporarily secured. A quick snip with the pliers instantly releases them. I actually invested five bucks in a pack of ‘reusable’ cigarettes, but the ones I bought at Bunnings really work loose…great idea, but no cigars this time!

Adhesives: several types are essential. Tubes of super glue, at least two or three. A silicone tube or similar. Also a tube of 3M 5200 marine glue. I also found Selleys ‘knead it’ two part waterproof multi-purpose epoxy to be excellent for all sorts of quick repairs. Especially in wet areas, it will even cure underwater…a must! (Note: they have several in their ‘knead’ range, so be sure to get the one that says AQUA for wet areas.)

Tape: masking tape, electrical tape, brown parcel tape, and self-adhesive tape for “must be dry” jobs.

Axe: A good ax for cutting ropes, wires, and freeing yourself in an emergency.

Lube: One can of grease and one can of moisture displacing lubricant like WD40. Also a small jar of Vaseline for jobs such as stubborn o-rings and hoses.

Hose Clamps: A plastic box of various sizes of stainless steel hose clamps… as many as you can afford.

Electrical Requirements – These can be many and varied, but you can’t go wrong with the basics. Good quality electrical connectors and crimp tools pay big dividends in terms of long-term reliability. A good pair of ‘side cutters’ with insulated handles for cables of all sizes is also important for quick and efficient repairs. Red and black electrical wires (different amperages) and the means to solder them are very important, especially if you are dealing with a cruise ship. A small butane or propane (refillable) torch is recommended. Don’t forget the heat shrink tubing for waterproof joints and it’s very important that you buy an electrical ‘multimeter’ and a good book on how to identify and fix electrical problems on board. (Don Casey’s book on boat electricity called ‘Sailboat Electrics Simplified’ published by International Marine – McGraw Hill available from Boatbooks, (Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne would be a good guide). A working knowledge of understanding and troubleshooting basic electrical faults it could be the difference between disaster and success on any offshore voyage Also don’t forget the solder wire, auto flux is good for quick and efficient joins.

Today we are lucky to have access to really good and cheap 240/12 volt inverters to run your power tools. The usual power tools can be taken on board, but we won’t go into too much detail in this article on what to bring. However, number one on my list would be an angle grinder/sander.

Hardware – Can vary greatly, but should contain some of the following:

Stainless Wood Screws (assorted)

Stainless Nuts, Bolts & Washers (Assorted)

Stainless Pins (assorted)

small size replacement bits

Fuses (if applicable)

· Bulbs for lights and flashlights

Files, metal and miscellaneous (also needle files)

iron or steel wire

Plastic spring clips (large and small)

G Clamps (various sizes)

Before you start writing… I know each and every person can have priorities, but I’ve saved two additions to the above for last so you can remember them. One is a total must, the other a luxury, but nonetheless, worth mentioning.

The absolute necessity is a set of serious bolt cutters for unhooking downed rigging along with a good hacksaw and blades.

My favorite luxury item is my variable speed grinder and sander, Ryobi and Bosch. I can say that they have saved me more time and effort sanding, cutting and repairing boats than I care to think…..

Your onboard tool kit is more than a convenience, it’s an absolute number one priority to be treated with respect and care. Just ask a friend of mine, Kenny, who foolishly balanced his tool kit on the coaming while opening a hatch after a breakdown at sea. After realizing what the big splash was, Kenny drifted for two days until he was discovered by chance. Kenny (whose box of tea bags collapsed with the tools) ruefully recalls that “most people don’t realize you can get fifteen cups of tea out of one used tea bag”… Personally, I think that he was lucky, very lucky!

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