How to do a chemical peel

Always check with your doctor or dermatologist before starting any skin care regimen.

First, I would like to say that I am of the opinion that “PEELS WITH SOLUTIONS MORE THAN 10% STRENGTH SHOULD NOT BE DONE AT HOME. In most states, estheticians are licensed to perform glycolic, lactic and other alpha hydroxy peels. up to 30% strength .. They can also use a Jessner peel at 14% level and can apply up to 3 coats. Trichloroacetic (TCA) should only be performed by dermatologists or plastic surgeons. Please use a licensed professional who has experience in chemical peels Serious consequences can occur.

Clients who want a professional chemical peel / peel stronger than 10% should use an 8% -10% peel solution at home for two weeks before receiving a superior chemical peel. They should also use a night cream with Retin-A (vitamin A) as an ingredient. Proper preparation will give the best results and will please your client. Remember that “advance planning avoids poor performance.”

I would also like to state that my intention with this article is to provide information to licensed estheticians and other skin professionals. This article is not intended for the general public. However, education is essential for a better understanding. As a general rule of thumb, no one should use exfoliating agents on themselves, but rather inform them of a standard protocol that a licensed skincare professional would provide if this service is provided. (See my link to the TV show “THE DOCTORS”).

Review the Fitzpatrick scale and determine if the client is an ideal candidate for a chemical peel. Allow the client to read and sign an informed consent form. This is very important. DO NOT PERFORM STRONG PEELINGS IN FITZPATRICK TYPES VI, V or VI. Also, know its contraindication before administering a peel. Do not perform any chemical peels on inflamed, irritated, or broken skin. The best advice I can give you is this: “WHEN YOU HAVE DOUBTS … DON’T.”

With that said, let’s get started.

1. Remove makeup: Usually the best option is a milky cleanser that is placed on gauze or cotton and rubbed on the skin. Repeat until makeup is removed. Do not use petroleum jelly due to its occlusive properties.

2. Cleanse the skin: The esthetician should thoroughly cleanse the skin with warm water and a mild but effective skin cleanser. This cleaner should not be too strong, but strong enough to remove dirt, debris, and sebum (oil). I recommend a foaming gel or cleanser for oily, combination, and problem skin because surfactants help break down oil. For dry and sensitive skin, I recommend a milky cleanser or lotion. Rinse skin with warm water several times and pat skin dry. DO NOT SCRUB THE SKIN.

3. Degreasing the skin: This step involves removing the skin from its oil by applying 70%, 90% isopropyl alcohol or acetone to the skin with gauze or cotton. Be careful using 90% isopropyl alcohol and acetone, as they are very drying. I generally use 90% or acetone on oily and combination skin. Degreasing the skin allows the exfoliating solution to absorb more evenly, since the exfoliating solution does not have to cut through the sebum. Allow the solution to evaporate completely before proceeding to step 4.

4. Prepare the treatment for the peel: This is a crucial step in performing chemical peels. There is nothing worse than not being prepared. Make sure you have a neutralizing product readily available or have a container of cold water mixed with about 3 to 4 tablespoons of baking soda (baking soda). Any of these products will save your life if something goes wrong. They will neutralize the chemical peel solution, thus helping to prevent further damage to the skin. Prepare your eye pads with the standard butterfly shaped cotton pads or soak the large eyes in cold water. Use a cotton swab to put a small amount of petroleum jelly closest to the bottom of the eye and on the top of the eyelid. This will prevent some of the peel solution from being absorbed. Place the protective eye pads over the client’s eyes. Give the customer a portable fan and turn it on. The fan will help relieve discomfort as the chemical exfoliating agent is applied to the skin. You are now ready to apply the chemical exfoliating agent.

5. Applying the exfoliating agent: After ensuring that the client’s eyes are protected, begin applying the exfoliating agent. Use a gauze square or large peelable swab to apply the solution. Generally, you should start at the forehead and slide your finger. Then proceed down the nose and down the cheeks, then to the chin area. Use a small swab saturated with the exfoliating solution to rub under the eye area. NEVER APPLY PEELING AGENT ON THE UPPER EYELID. If you are using glycolic acid; lactic acid; or an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) solution, the amount of time left on the skin has a direct correlation with the strength of the solution applied to the skin. In other words, a 10% solution can be left longer than a 30%, 50%, or 70% solution. The stronger the solution, the less time it will spend on the skin. Also, if this is the client’s first time getting a peel, you won’t want to leave the peel solution on for the maximum time. Generally, most lactic, glycolic, and AHA peel solutions can be left on for up to 10 minutes. Lactic acid is the best option for dry and sensitive skin, as it tends not to dry out. Watch for increased redness and irritation. Then remove by rinsing with cold water. Rinse the skin at least 3 to 6 times. Then use the baking soda and water mixture to stop the chemical reaction. Pat the skin dry. DO NOT SCRUB THE SKIN.

If the peel solution is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) such as salicylic acid, time is not the only factor in determining when to finish the peel. You MUST look for the “frosting”. Frosting is the process of breaking down keratin in the skin. Usually the skin will turn white like frosting on a cake. One coat may be sufficient, at some point 2-3 will be needed. If more than one coat is needed, wait 45 seconds to 1 minute before applying additional coats. Note that you are not looking to precipitate salicylates. It looks like frosting, but it’s just salicylic acid reacting to air. The frosting will look more rosy white. Once frost sets in, let it stay on skin for about 1-3 minutes, then rinse with cold water. DO NOT SCRUB THE SKIN. DRY WITH STAIN. BHA peels cannot be neutralized. A cold towel applied to the skin is usually enough to relieve discomfort.

If the exfoliating agent is a Jessner solution, it should be a 14% solution. Jessner’s peel consists of 14% salicylic and 14% lactic acid in a resorcinol solvent. This exfoliation is strong and provides excellent results when used correctly. Similar to a salicylic peel, Jessner’s peel is ideal for clients who want to improve skin tone, acne, and fine lines and wrinkles. The frosting is also produced with this shell. The use of a fan with this shell is required. Wait a minute between coats. The esthetician can generally apply up to 3 coats, while doctors can apply more and may use a higher concentration. Again, this peel is ideal for clients who have oily or combination skin types. Once the frosting appears, do not apply any more solution. Let it stay on the skin for about 3 minutes and then apply a cold towel to the skin.

If the chemical peel is a trichloroacetic acid (TCA), a doctor should administer the peel. Estheticians should not perform this peel. If you want information about this peeling, go to your dermatologist or doctor. I am sorry.

Now that the peel has been done, what’s next? Well, in my opinion it is essential to apply a hyaluronic serum on the skin. Hyaluronic acid is a hydrophilic (water-loving) ingredient that does not dry out. It is essential for all skin types. In fact, hyaluronic acid is naturally found in the deepest tissues of the skin. Originally discovered on a rooster’s comb, it is now produced synthetically for cosmetics. It is silky, smooth and helps to plump up the skin. Make sure you have a product on hand that does.

After the hyaluronic acid serum has been applied, apply sunscreen to the client’s skin and send it home. Your client should take products home to aid in the healing process. Hyaluronic Serum, Skin Brightener (Alpha Arbutin), Retin-A, Moisturizer, and most importantly, an anti-aging sunscreen with SPF 30+. Telephone follow-up with the client during the next 3 days. Approximately 10 days after the peel, the client should return to the salon for a follow-up visit and for a facial. This is when you, the esthetician, can evaluate the peel. During the healing process, you want to reassure the client that what is happening to their skin is expected. Give them a take-home form that reminds the client that what they are experiencing is normal. Encourage your client to keep their skin clean and hydrated. Make sure they use plenty of moisturizer and sunscreen. Advise them to avoid prolonged exposure to the sun for the next month. They should not use manual scrubs to wear down or speed up the peeling process. The slower the peeling process, the healthier.

Remember that peels can produce different results for any individual. It is your responsibility to obtain an informed and consent form from your client. If you scrutinize your clients and use the right tools (i.e. the Fitzpatrick scale), you should be able to offer excellent anti-aging skincare to your clients.